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| Where am I ? |
I have been spending the last few days in the towns of Phrae, Nan and Lampang which are the capitals of the respective provinces of the same name. Both Phrae and Nan have populations under 20,000. Lampang is about 230,000.These towns are off most tourist's maps especially non Thai tourists and especially Phrae. Nan has a bit more tourism due to availability of white water rafting (but not this season; as the water is too low) and the attraction of the Phumin Wat (which see below)
Generally throughout Thailand tourism is down a bit as there are fewer Europeans traveling as opposed to previous years. Partly that decrease has been offset by Russians and Chinese. The Chinese are coming as a result of a Chinese movie “Lost in Thailand” and the Russians have apparently 'taken over' the popular beach/club/moon party Phuket.
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There's a lot of bricks in the wall - end view
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Remainder of old city wall - Nan, Thailand
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Community Life part of wall mural in Phumin Wat, Nan
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There are several National Parks in Northern
Thailand but, for an aging, whitey who doesn't speak Thai
travels alone and doesn't know how to drive a motorcycle; getting to
them is somewhat problematical. In Phrae I thought I had it all
arranged. I went to the queue of Blue Songteous with map and official TAT (Tourist Authority of Thailand) brochure in hand; both of which
showed the park in Thai writing. It took several attempts of
'talking' with different people before concluding which songteou went
in that direction, at what time and for how much. So I took note of
the tag number and said I would return the next day. Which I did. I
found the target vehicle and the driver shook his head indicating no
when I showed him the same info as the day before. He pointed toward
another songteau so I approached it and there were several people
whom I considered were drivers and so repeated my song and dance with
them. They shook their heads 'no', and pointed me back to the guy I
originally talked to. So I went back to my room. I didn't want to
hop onto a songteau and not know where I was going and no idea, if I
did get to the park, how I would return.
These modes of transport usually don't
have fixed schedules and the drivers usually waits until they have
an acceptable number of passengers before leaving their station. In
Chiang Mai that is no problem. But in smaller towns where English is
seldom heard it's a different matter. There may be days when there
is no sonteau that passes by the park. In fact today I walked
several kms in that direction and I think not a one passed by in
either direction.
In Phrae one hardly sees another
tourist. In Nan there are quite a number of Thai tourists. TAT's
brochures for the different Provinces usually focus on Wats and
Provincial Parks. Generally speaking I would say only those people
seriously interested in studying the historical and architectural
nuances or seeking out so called relics of the Bhudda as well as
those on 'homage' would be attracted to these smaller places. For
me, after I have seen a dozen or so Wats I have no need to see more.
It is surprisingly hard to find
vegetarian food in these parts – especially as most eating places
have no menu or menus in Thai only and no staff that speaks English.
On my last vist to Phrae there was an excellant Vegetarian restaurant
with an eco-enviro consciousness about it. It is no longer here. At
one of the eateries a partially English literate pointed me 'just
past the 7-11, turn left and then right. I did find the place but it
was closed. In Nan there was a Vegetarian restaurant close to the
guest house. For a few days it was closed as the apparent
manager/owner who spoke English told me her mother was in the
hospital and she had to take care of that. She reopened the day
before I left.
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| Decorations on bow of long boat |
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| Long Boat on Display |
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Songteau queue Phrae, Thailand
Transport to National Park? |
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| Long Boat in River |
